Turning back on our tracks we come to the old Born market, (17) In the background the church of Santa Maria del Mar, (18) one of the soberest and most impressive examples of Catalan Gothic, crowns the scene. C/ Montcada (19), enclave of the city’s burghers from the 14th to the 17th centuries, begins at the foot of the church. The Berenguer d’Aguilar house, today the Museu Picasso, (20) the Cervelló house, now the Fundación Maeght; and the palaces of the Dalmases and the Marquès de Lleó, which now house the Omnium Cultural and the Museu Rocamora, respectively, all correspond to the typology of Catalan civil Gothic in which, beyond the entrance hall, an open courtyard gives access to the main stairway. The Barbier Mueller collection of pre-Columbian art was installed in the Palau Nadal in May 1997. The visit might be completed by coming out onto the Via Laietana -a thoroughfare cut through the historic Casc Antic to link the Eixample with the commercial port at the beginning of this centuryfrom which there is a marvellous view of the 3rd century Roman wall (21). Just up from this, at no. 50, is the Casa dels Velers (22), celebrated for its richly sgrafittoed facade, and behind it the Palau de la Música (23) at Sant Pere més alt, 13, that supreme achievement of the Modernista Domènech i Montaner, brilliantly restored by Oscar Tusquets and Carles Díaz.